Growing your Roses

• They like sun--at least 6 hours of midday sun unless they are listed as tolerating partial shade.
• They like moisture, at least 1-2" per week until they are well established.
• They like good drainage. Water should not stand any time of year in the place they are planted. Drainage can be improved by double digging and adding quick-draining material to the bottom layer. Alternately, roses can be planted in raised beds to improve drainage.
• They like to spread their roots. Ideally, the ground should be prepared to 18" deep and, if a single rose, to 3' in diameter.
• They are not fussy about soil type. Though many roses will do best in well-dug, medium loam, many of the species and shrub roses prefer lighter soils, mulched to conserve moisture.
• They prefer moderate fertility. Compost or well-rotted manure can be added to the planting soil if the soil is poor.
• They like air movement around their foliage. A breezy spot will help keep various molds and mildews from growing on the leaves.
• They do not like competition at their roots. Weeds or grass compete for water and nutrients and also harbor various disease organisms. Mulch is helpful to keep weeds down as well as to conserve water and keep the roots cooler.
• Drying winter winds can be hard on roses. A location where there will be some shelter is preferable.

How deep should the rose be planted?

• In warm climates, roses are generally planted so that the crown as at or just below ground level and the branches are no closer than 2" to the soil.
• In cold climates (zone 5 and colder) the crown should be below the level of the soil. This gives more protection to the roots which are usually only hardy to about 25^oF.
• Some authorities are recommending, for cold climates, that the crown of the plant be much deeper, up to 6" below soil level. If the plant has tender canes, they should be pruned to soil level in the fall. It seems that this method would be worth trying on the Bourbons, the Hybrid Perpetuals, and some of the smaller English roses. Let us know if you have experience using this method on shrub roses.

How should a bare root (dormant) rose be planted?

• The most important thing to remember in planting a bare root rose is that the roots should not be allowed to dry out before they are planted. If planting must be delayed, keep the rose cool and moist, but not wet. If there is no cool place for it, 'heel in' the plant by digging a trench and burying the roots. Try not to leave it more than a few days in this state or it could start to grow.
• It is also important that the roots not dry out during the process of planting. A cool, damp day is ideal, but shelter from the wind and sun will substitute. A damp cloth can provide that shelter while you prepare the soil.
• Some recommend that roots be soaked a few minutes to a few hours before planting. Furthermore, some suggest that vitamin B1 or special rooting solutions be added to the soaking water. These practices may help the rose get established quickly, but the most important practice is to water the rose well in the process of planting it. In any case, do not let the rose sit in water overnight or longer. It can slow down the begining of good growth.
• Dig a good-sized hole, deep enough and wide enough to spread the roots as much as their growth pattern allows. Then expand the hole again, being generous with the width. (Tradition says the hole should be twice the diameter of the "root ball", but roots are not always in a regular, ball-like clump when you receive them!) Roots should never be curled around or bent to fit a too-small hole. The depth should allow the crown to be at the desired depth (see above). plus a bit more so you can make the soil friable at the bottom.
• It is good to mix the soil from the hole with organic material--composted manure, compost,  leaf mold, or peat moss. This helps sandy soil to hold moisture and helps the drainage of heavier soils. Bone meal is a good additon. It provides a source of phosphorous for root growth. One prescription is for one large handful for every 5-6 shovels of soil.
• Now for the rose. Examine the roots, and trim any that are damaged or any that are exceptionally long. The canes should be trimmed back to 6 to 8 inches and any damaged ones cut back to good wood.
• Position the rose in the hole, spreading its roots as much as possible. Fill the hole about halfway, until the rose is held in position. Tamp the soil to eliminate any air pockets. A gentle stream of water at this point will help the soil fill in around the roots.
• Add the remainder of the soil, constructing a low rim around the edge of the hole. This shallow well will hold water and help the rose get the thorough waterings that it needs especially when it is getting started.
• An optional practice is to mound soil up around the canes 6 to 8". This helps keep the canes moist and encourages the buds. They usually "break" or start growing in about 14 days. When this begins, the mound should be washed away with a gentle stream from the hose.

How should a rose growing in a container be planted?

• Sizing of the hole and preparation of the soil will be similar to that for bare root roses.
• Water the rose well to help hold the soil and roots together during the planting maneuvers.
• Removal of the rose from the pot differs on the type of pot. Roses in plastic pots are usually grown in the container and have a well-consolidated root-soil mass. The pots can be cut off, or a well-watered plant can be tipped out of the pot. Examine the roots. If they are circling the outside they have been in the pot for some time, and there is a danger the roots will never grow out into the surrounding soil. They can be encouraged to change their pattern of growth by making very shallow cuts (1/4-1/2") from top to bottom of the ball in three or four places around the perimeter of the root mass. The rose is set gently in the hole and the soil filled in around. Fill the hole completely, tamping it gently to eliminate air pockets before giving it a thorough watering. A rim can be constructed to hold water, but as the plant is leafed out, there is no need for a soil mound.
• Roses in fiber pots have often been in the container a shorter period of time and may not have a well-consolidated soil ball around the roots. The bottom of the container should be cut off, then the rose set in the hole and the sides of the pot slit so they can be pulled away. Fill hole with soil and water as with the plastic pots.

Care of Roses

• How should roses be cared for after planting?
• Water
• Fertilizer
• To Spray or Not to Spray
• Pruning

How should I care for my rose the first winter after it is planted?

• For all newly planted roses, mound dirt up over the crown of the rose several inches. Usually 4-6" is recommended.
• Moth balls scattered around the base of the plant will usually discourage mice or shrews from feasting on the rose canes. Poison grain can also be effective but may be dangerous to pets and birds.
• Over the dirt mound, add a layer of loose mulch, either leaves or covering hay.
• In windy locations form a cylinder of chicken wire or hardware cloth around the plant to hold the mulch.
• For slightly tender roses, such as Bourbons, Hybrid Perpetuals, English Roses, etc. use the wire cage method, and fill it with leaves to the top. This will help the canes as well as the crown of the plant survive the winter.
• In the spring, once warm weather seems settled in, loosen mulch and check for growth of buds. If shoots are beginning, open the mulch so that heat and moisture does not build up. When freezing weather no longer threatens, remove the mulch and gently brush away the mound of dirt.

How should I care for my rose in subsequent winters?

• The slightly tender roses should be treated as they were their first winter.
• For smaller roses, continue to build a mound of dirt over the plant's crown. Add mulch if the rose is planted in a windy, exposed location.
• Once the larger shrubs have attained good size, or have many canes emerging from the soil, they do not lend themselves to this treatment. Most of the large shrubs are hardy and do not need special care. However, their winter survival is enhanced by good cultural practices especially sufficient watering and keeping weeds away from their base.
• For many roses, it is recommended that pruning be done in late winter or early spring. This, of course, is not feasible if the roses are buried in leaves. In this case, they can be pruned when their covering is removed. Remember that after a very cold winter, it may not be apparent which canes survived until the weather has been warm for a few weeks.

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